High Ozone Kills Toxic Mold,  Germs, & Odors

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Ozone Treatment Blog Questions & Answers from Phillip Fry, mold consultant, Certified Environmental Hygienist and Certified Mold Inspector, Certified Environmental Hygienist, and manager of EnviroDetectives™

May 2, 2012. See the pictures inside of the ozone generator professional model.

Ozone Generator Questions Aug. 23, 2012, from a Hong Kong Buyer of Our Ozone Blaster---

To use ozone on sofas: I can clean the outer fabric but, how to clean the inside? I hope I can do it with the blaster?! If not possible to make the ozone go inside the fibers, what can I do?  I hope I do not have to throw it away because very expensive. I have smelled and it is not smelly.
A. First make sure the sofa is away from the wall so that the ozone can get to all surfaces. Move the ozone generator several times around the sofa. Also turn the sofa on its back so you can get ozone to the back side. While the sofa is on its back side, cut holes in the bottom side covering fabric big enough to insert the ozone machine hose deep into the sofa to inject massive amounts (at least one hour of treatment) into the interior of the sofa. After a thorough ozone treatment, use a hand-held HEPA vacuum cleaner to thoroughly vacuum all surfaces three times: horizontally, vertically, and diagonally. Third, scrub the fabric with borax laundry detergent or boric acid powder dissolved into hot water. |

Q. What about a mattress? 
A. Do the same steps as explained above for a sofa. Be sure you treat top, bottom, and all sides of mattress and box spring.

Q. What about air cons? Is there any way to make the aircons filter (recently changed) clean with the ozone?
A. Remove the filters and then clean them both filter sides with a HEPA vacuum cleaner (do the same three way treatment horizontally, vertically, and diagonally). While the filters are removed, use boric acid powder dissolved into hot water to scrub all areas inside the air con distribution register. Then, use the hose attachment of the ozone generator to inject at least 15 minutes worth of ozone treatment into the inside of each air con air supply register, plus one hour into the return air supply of a central air con system (with the system running simultaneously on fan ventilation).

Q. And what about the exhaust fans in the bathrooms, kitchen, and laundry room?
A. Remove the grill register, clean out the insides of the exhaust fan duct by scrubbing with boric acid powder or Tim-Bor, and then use the ozone generator hose to supply at least 15 minutes of ozone into each exhaust fan duct.

Q. For the clothes: how do I need to apply the ozone? Is it like leaving the clothes on the hangers while the ozone goes through the air of the room or it is more like deeply working on the item one by one?
A. Use both of your ideas for good ozone penetration of clothes with a mold smell or possible deposited/landed mold spores that don’t yet cause mold smells. After ozone treatment, wash and scrub the clothes with mold-removing borax laundry detergent.

Q.  Can I use the ozone for the leather items such handbags and coats? Will make the ozone disappear the odour?
A. Yes, but make sure you get ozone treatment to all sides/insides of handbags and coats. Then scrub with borax laundry detergent.

Q.  Finally: I have some clothes from my daughter which smell of mold but do not show any mold growth on the surface: in this case where the mold did not show yet: do I need to bring these pieces to dry cleaning or I can use the ozone treatment only. These clothes I refer are only princess disguises  and Dry Cleaning will cost me 20 US $ each and I do not want to spend so much money on this.
A. Ozone treatment should take care of the mold smell and kill landed deposited mold spores without the need for dry cleaning.

Q. July 25, 2012. Any tips for protecting major appliances (particularly the refrigerator) during ozone treatment?
A.  If you do ozoning of a room or area for less than 2 hours at one time, there should be no ozone damage to rubber or plastic inside the treatment area, but as a wise precaution when doing ozone blasting for any time period, you can use 2 inch wide duct tape to cover and thus protect appliance cords, refrigerator or freezer door rubber gaskets, electrical outlet and switch plastic plates, and any other rubber or plastic materials inside the ozone treatment area. If you do ozone blasting in an area such as a basement, crawl space, or attic, you can take the extra precaution step of duct wrapping any exposed electrical lines---Phillip Fry, mold expert, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

Q. March 10, 2012. Hi Phillip, First of all thanks for getting back so quick and for your detailed response. Today I plan on ordering the Bio3Blaster but I have a couple of remaining questions: There is a very thin carpet glued to the basement floor. Should I blast the basement first to keep the spores down, then remove the carpet then scrub the floor with the mold stat and then blast it again? Or should I remove the carpet first? The furniture in the basement is junk so I will throw that out, Do i need to do anything with the upstairs furniture, other than blast the room, do I? God I hope not. There is insulation in the crawl space glued to walls. Do I need to remove that? 
A. Thanks for your purchase of the powerful Bio3Blaster ozone generator. Read carefully the use and ozone generator safety instructions.  If you have any questions, I am here to help you.  In answer to your questions: 1. Please read the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation. You need to wear the recommended charcoal-based filter while removing or transferring the ozone generator. At all other times during the mold remediation wear at least a 3M brand N-95 breathing mask or 3M brand full face respirator with organic filters (both items are available at Home Depot or Lowe's).  2. Do an initial one hour (or more if the basement is large) ozone treatment in each area of the basement before removing and discarding the glued down carpeting. 3. Once you have used a mold cleaner to remove any visible basement mold growth, then do another ozone treatment of the basement. 4. When removing the carpeting, cut it into small sections to put into 6 mil thick garbage bags. Seal the bags before carrying the bags outside to put into your trash pickup. 5. Use do discard the inexpensive furniture. Throwing away mold-infested items is often the cheapest and best mold remediation step. 6. For furniture and household items upstairs that don't have any visible mold growth, use a HEPA vacuum cleaner to thoroughly vacuum all surfaces (including the bottom and back) of all furniture and other possessions, and then scrub down the vacuumed surfaces with your mold cleaner solution. 7. As to the glued-on crawl space insulation, cut out a few small test sections of the insulation to examine the backside of the samples for evidence of mold growth either on the samples themselves or the wall behind the sampled areas. If there is no mold growth on the back side of the cut out sample or behind the samples, you do NOT need to remove the insulation prior to ozone blasting. If the insulation has no mold growth on either the outside surface or on its backside, just leave the glued on insulation in place. Besides ozone blasting of the crawl space, do fogging of the crawl space (and basement and attic) with your mold cleaner. The best for the money fogging machine is the Hurricane model available online from http://www.dynafog.com.  Please email me any follow up questions you may have. In service, Phillip

Q. Jan. 28, 2012. Thank you for your email help and advice, and for your mold books, boric acid powder, and ozone generator. I only wish I found your site before I used the remediation comedies because obviously the job was only half done.  I am very hopeful that we can get rid of this continuous problem and be a little healthier.  I worry about long term damage, especially to my baby. We have been battling mold in our home we bought for nearly two years now.  We have spent nearly $5,000 in mold remediation companies only to find out that we have begun smelling that lovely musty smell again. Our problem area is mostly in the crawlspace.  Upon moving in we replaced some visible mold spots we found on walls and the flooring and put down hardwoods throughout.  Later the smell became so powerful we found that the mold had thoroughly taken over the crawlspace. There is also a strong mold smell when we open our kitchen cabinets. We currently have it on the market because I can't stand the health problems I know in my heart are related to the mold.  My 2 yr. old son and I are mostly the ones affected with mainly sinus issues although I also have two older daughters as well.  We have had to buy a nebulizer for his asthma that we use on an as needed basis.  My questions are: 1. Which bag of the Boric Acid Powder do I need for a house that is nearly 2700 sq. ft.? 2.  I know I need a fogger for the air units but do you know of one that works well for about $100 or can you also spray these with a garden sprayer 3.  Should I start the Boric solution spraying before I get my BioBlaster or wait to do it all at once? 4.  Since the interior walls and air units were not treated by the remediation company, do I need to spray and scrub all walls and everything in the house as well?---D.W., Georgia.
A. Thanks for buying two of my mold advice ebooks and the Bio3Blaster ozone generator and boric acid powder to help you get rid of your home mold problems. You need to succeed both for your family's health and to be able to sell the house without any legal problems from the future buyer of your home. Have your lawyer draft for your use in any future home sales contract a disclosure about the mold problems and what you have done in mold remediation, along with an “as is” clause, that the buyer is buying the home “as is” without any representations to you about its physical condition. I'm sorry you are having such serious mold problems and that you have had the typical experience people have with expensive mold remediators---failure of the mold remediation job after you have paid big money for supposedly professional help. Unfortunately, most mold remediation jobs are failures because of inadequate mold worker training and supervision of them, missed areas not remediated, ineffective and incomplete mold removal procedures, and shortcuts taken. Before buying a home, it wise for the prospective buyer to have the home thoroughly inspected by a Certified Mold Inspector to avoid the mold nightmare your family is living in. You are wise to take care of the problem yourself to get the results your family deserves. Your first step should be to use the ozone generator for at least two hours in the crawl space, at least one hour into the fresh air intake of your heating/cooling system, and one hour in all areas of the house, including its attic. Please don’t "go room to room" with your ozone generator by carrying the ozone generator around with you when you are operating it. You have to place the ozone generator in each separate area you want to do mold killing and then turn the generator on and off by plugging and unplugging an electrical extension cord remotely from the outdoors.   Be sure you read and follow the safety instructions for safe and effective ozone treatment, as explained in the instruction page at http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm. Watch the video on the website as to how to attach the hose to the ozone generator because you will want to use the hose as the way to inject the ozone into the fresh air intake while your heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system is running on fan ventilation. As a second step, do heavy spraying of boric acid powder, mixed into hot water to dissolve it well. In view of budgetary constraints (which almost everyone has including the government!!!), in lieu of a fogging machine in the doing boric treatment of your crawl space and HVAC, you can use a hand-pumped sprayer (about $40) from a large hardware store or home improvement store.  Mix at least 24 ounces of boric per gallon of hot water. You can use the sprayer to inject boric spray into the heating/cooling system while it is running on fan ventilation. Is the crawl space high enough that you can get into it to do a heavy spraying and mold removal of the mold growth???  While you are doing mold remediation, you need to follow the safety precautions such as always wearing N-95 breathing mask, eye goggles, disposable vinyl gloves, painter's hat and disposable shoe covers and coveralls.  Your family, pets, and plants must not be in the house during the ozone treatment and boric acid treatment steps---have your children be with neighbors, friends, or relatives until at least a few hours after ozone treatment and boric treatment steps.  As a third step, you need to physically remove any visible mold growth to visibly mold clean condition using such tools as a Makita grinder with wire brush attachment and hand-held wire brush. Because of the large size of the house, may I suggest that you buy one 50 pound bag of boric acid powder, available at http://www.moldmart.net. After you have used the ozone generator inside your HVAC and in all rooms and areas (including crawl space and attic), you should wash and scrub all walls, ceilings, floors, and furnishings with boric acid dissolved into hot water. You can safely assume that all of your interior home surfaces will have elevated levels of deposited/landed mold spores that you need to remove. In addition, the indoor air is going to have elevated levels of airborne mold spores. Before, during, and after mold remediation, open up the windows of your house and use large box fans to continually exhaust indoor air to the outdoors to get rid of elevated levels of airborne mold spores. As to the kitchen cabinets, when you smell mold, THERE IS mold.  You might have a kitchen sink or dishwasher plumbing leak that enables mold to grow beneath or behind the cabinets.  Empty all of the cabinets for a close physical examination with a strong flash light and your sense of smell for any mold growth inside the cabinets themselves. When there is extensive mold growth in a crawl space, it is very easy for the mold to grow upwards into the floors, walls, carpeting/padding, and kitchen/bathroom cabinets and furniture setting on the floor. You would be very wise to temporarily remove the kitchen counter and the cabinets so that you can examine the back and bottom side of all kitchen cabinets and the floor beneath them. If there is mold growth in any of these areas, use of a Makita grinder with wire brush attachment on the moldy surfaces followed by hand scrubbing with hand-held wire brush and scrubbing brush continually soaking with fresh boric acid powder in hot water (to dissolve the boric, so it is for the boric mix to be just warm water when you use it).   Please email me with any and all mold remediation questions you may have. We are here to help you. In service, Phillip and Divine Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienists, Certified Mold Inspectors, and Certified Mold Remediators.

Q. October 2, 2011. Attached are some pictures of the self mold tests that I did using do it yourself mold test kits. Our home is 11 years old and uses forced air. I have noticed that there is a mild musty smell coming out of the vents when the AC is being run, this is what lead me to conduct a test. Also we tend to have allergies which may be related. Can you please tell me what I need to do to eliminate this mold problem? We have little children and I am a bit disturbed by the positive results. 
A. The bluish green mold colonies in your mold test kit pictures are the combination of Aspergillus and Penicillium mold, the second and third most unhealthy indoor mold species. Mold growing in your heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system is a disaster in terms of your family health because the mold spores from the mold growing in your HVAC system are continually thrown into the air from the outward air flow from the HVAC registers. These airborne mold spores make your family sick and also mold cross contaminate your entire house. First step---You need to do ozone blasting at least two or three separate times for one hour each time into your heating/cooling fresh air intake to kill mold spores and mold growth inside the HVAC. You also need to do ozone treatment of your entire house. You can buy our low cost, very powerful high ozone generator Bio3Blaster for these repeated treatments at http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm  Be sure to read the posted use and safety instructions to use ozone treatment safely and effectively in your home. Second step---after the ozone treatments of your HVAC, then use a fogging machine to fog boric acid powder mix into your fresh air HVAC intake or into its return air duct, as well as into each of the HVAC registers.  Do the fresh air intake or return air duct while the system is running on fan ventilation. Do fogging of the individual ducts when the system is NOT running.  The best quality fogging machine at a low price is the Hurricane model available from http://www.dynafog.com.  For the best quality boric acid powder and for the mix formula, please visit the boric pages on http://www.moldmart.net.  Once you own both the Bio3Blaster and the Hurricane fogging machine, you can make big money renting them out to help mold victims in your area. While on Mold Mart, consider buying two of my ebooks that you really need: (1) Mold Health Guide; and (2) Do It Best Yourself Mold Inspection, Testing, Remediation, and Prevention, only $15 each for email attachment delivery to you. Please email me any follow up mold questions you may have. In service, Phillip Fry, manager, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator.

Q. Sept. 28, 2011. I came across your website while researching mold removal/prevention strategies on-line.  I am potentially interested in purchasing an ozone generator as you discussed on your site.  If it is not too much trouble, I have some brief questions before proceeding. Briefly, I have had some recurrent mold/mildew issues in my basement.  I suspect it is related to the high relative humidity in the space, as there is generally no visible water, leaks, etc, but is generally fairly damp/humid.  I have used a dehumidifier with only moderate success, as the space is fairly large/open, and therefore sometimes difficult to treat with a dehumidifier, even when running constantly.  When I first moved into my house (new construction, about 5 years ago now, unfinished basement) I was unaware of this issue, and it actually caused me to lose the entire contents of my basement that I had stored there, due to rapid mold accumulation.  Since then it has been an ongoing issue, flaring up at various times.  Earlier this week, I noticed the recurrent smell of mold/mildew from the basement/air ducts, and sure enough there was a re-accumulation on the back of the basement door, underside of the steps, and some visible wiring.  I have cleaned this with a commercial product, with some decent results in odor removal/visible mold colonies, etc.  However I am interested in doing a more thorough job, and am potentially interested in one of your ozone units. My first question is in regards to the size of the treatment area.   It is an open space, about 2000 sq ft total.  Would the smaller unit be acceptable for this area, or would it necessitate the larger unit? Second, the HVAC unit for the first floor of my house, as well as the boiler, and the electric panels for the house would be in the treatment area.  Are there any special precautions needed for these devices?  I would imagine it would be difficult for me to wrap/contain these units, as they are fairly large. Finally, I am also interested in potentially utilizing the boric acid treatment you recommended.  I would like to utilize it by fogging it through my vents as you mentioned, and also by direct application on almost all the visible surfaces in my basement.  There has been a large visible accumulation of mold on the exposed wiring this time, is it safe to use on these surfaces? Thank you so much in advance for your time and consideration in answering these questions.  I hope that these treatments are finally what are needed to solve my mold re-accumulation and odor problems, and look forward to doing business with you in the future.
A. The Home Bio3Blaster unit will do the 2,000 square ft basement very well. You would run it for at least two hours for each treatment session you do. You would also use several fans to help carry than heavier than regular air ozone to all areas of your basement. Anything electronic should be covered with plastic sheeting. Put child proof caps into each electrical outlet cap to keep ozone out of electrical outlets. Cover each switch plate with duct tape or plastic. Besides doing ozone treatment in the open area of the basement, you should also do ozone blasting into your entire heating/cooling equipment and ducts because there will be mold therein as a natural consequence of the big basement mold problem.  Afterward ozone treatment in the basement and hvac system, you should do boric acid powder fogging of the entire basement and inside your hvac equipment and ducts. Mix two kitchen cups of ozone per gallon of hot water. Hot water makes it easy for the boric to dissolve when you stir it into the water. Buy a low cost ($300) Hurricane model fogging machine from http://www.dynafog.com for such effective fogging. Fog both areas for at least two hours in the basement and one hour in HVAC.  You should also move the fogging machine to different areas of the basement for even distribution and coverage of the boric acid powder fogging.  Buy 50 lbs of boric acid powder at our website http://www.moldmart.net.  You can buy the home model ozone generator at http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm.
Clean the mold off of wiring manually by scrubbing and washing the wiring with boric acid powder, and do this cleaning prior to ozone treatment. Then using duct tape and/or plastic wrap to cover all exposed electrical lines prior to the use of ozone. Whereever you see mold growth you need to remove it physically in advance of the ozone and boric treatments for maximum success in mold remediation. To remove visible mold growth, use hand and power tools for wire brushing, sanding, and planing.  You would be wise to buy and read my in depth mold advice ebook Do It Best Yourself Mold Inspection, Testing, Remediation, and Prevention, only $15 for email attachment from Mold Mart. If I can be of further help, please email me. Thanks, Phillip Fry, manager, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator.

Q & A Eight Questions sent to us by Massachusetts home owner on Sept. 14, 2011.

1. Do you advise that "all" the old insulation be removed before ozone treatment can be applied?
 Do two hours of ozone blasting in the attic BEFORE you temporarily remove the insulation, and then two hours AFTER you have temporarily removed it.  You need ozone treatment of both the insulation and the word beneath it. AFTER the ozone treatment of the exposed wood, use a $40 garden, hand-pumped sprayer (from a hardware or home improvement store) to spay a wet coating of boric acid powder (mixed with water and 6% hydrogen peroxide (from pharmacy) onto all wood surfaces (flooring, side walls, roof trusses). See the mix formula in the boric pages of http://www.moldmart.net, wherein you can buy from us the best quality boric. Also, please read the boric instructions posted on the website. Then, when boric is dried, put back the insulation bats. Then spray a coating of boric acid mix on top of the re-installed insulation bats. The combination of ozone blasting and boric treatment will do a great job of killing mold in both the insulation and in the attic wood materials.

2. A large window conditioner is kept in the attic. It' s very heavy to bring it down. Is it safe to operate Ozone blaster while this air conditioner remains in the attic? Yes, but cover the air con unit with plastic sheeting during ozone treatment.

3. The electrical point in attic is non GFCI based. I understand the ozone blaster goes into timer and timer goes in telectrical outlet. IS it ok to use electircal outlet? It's a standard outlet for U.S. based home. Yes, it's ok to use the non GRCI outlet in the attic to power the ozone blaster.

4.The attic has two gable vents on each side and also vent ridge. I read that these be covered to make the treatment area be tight proof. But I just want to confirm that. It is ok to leave gable vents open. Having air flow in the attic during ozone treatment helps distribute the ozone through out the attic.

5. The only entry to attic is through one of the bedroom on second floor and the bedroom can be locked. Do you advise that we can stay in home (on first floor) while ozone treatment is underway ? We are family of four, two adults and two toddlers. We can make sure that no one goes to second floor, and the locked bedroom and the attic. Yes, you can stay downstairs, but in addition to closing the door, tape a clear plastic sheeting over the door. Just put tape at the top of the sheeting and door, and just lift up this hanging plastic to enter/leave the attic.

6. I may also use this treatment in the basement . The basement holds heat furnance, boiler and electrical outlets. Will it be dangerous to operate ozone blast there? Cover with plastic all electrical outlets, switches, and rubber items in areas to be ozone treated to prevent any possible ozone damage. You should also do ozone treatment of your living area, but following our safety precautions.

7. Considering the area that I live in Massachusetts and that the season is already getting changed, do you think that I can achieve the results of high ozone blast that is claimed by you?  I do not mind repeat application of ozone blast to permanently resolve the issue. Ozone treatment works anywhere worldwide if you follow carefully the use and safety instructions posted on our website in a link from http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm.

8. How long will it take to deliver the ozone blaster to my home in Massachusetts? Your ozone blaster is in stock at the Cleveland, Ohio, manufacturer. It is shipped via UPS ground delivery, which would take at least 3 to 4 weekdays for it to arrive in Massachusetts.

August 11, 2011. During the ozone treatment of my home, what if I tape everything up to protect it during ozoning and set it to treat, then leave for vacation that day, right before I go? We just built the house, but we are concerned with the attic space, we have a huge hip roof on our house with a crawl space entrance up into it, it is full of insulation, but we will be checking it for mold contamination as the result of your earlier advice to us.  I hope our contractor (who is now bankrupt) didn’t vent the bathrooms into the attic.......I appreciate your quick response, really.  You are unbelievable in this day and age.
A. Taping items like metal surfaces and rubber coated or covered items to protect such items during the ozone process is a very good step on your part. You don't need to inspect beneath each insulation batt.  Check underneath enough of them throughout the attic to know that there is not a mold problem therein that would require ozone treatment and additional mold remediation.  Yes, going away for a few hours, a day, or even longer is a nice safe approach, but be sure the ozone machine is off during your absence (e.g., unplug the outdoor extension cord that is powering the machine). In the event that the bathroom vents or dryer vent is vented into the insides of walls, ceilings, or the attic or crawl space, you would have a big mold infestation problem in such moisture-penetrated areas.

Q. August 11, 2011. Will ozone shock treatment bleach or change the color of kitchen cabinets and wood flooring and wood paneling? 
A. Ozone treatment will not bleach or change the color of anything, including wood items. Ozone in water will bleach as a natural dye but ozone in the air is non-bleaching.

Q. August 11, 2011. What about the food in my pantry, is there anything I have to do to protect edible items during the ozone treatment of my home?
A.  Food in sealed packaging, unopened cans, tight storage containers, etc., are no problem during ozone treatment. As a peace of mind precaution---items like breads, fruits, other perishable foods, etc. should be stored inside the refrigerator or inside closed storage containers during the ozone treatment and for three hours after the treatment is completed.  Ozone is a USDA Organic Label approved sanitizer for use in all food applications. Ozone treatment is approved as a safe alternative to irradiating food.  Many fresh fruits and vegetables you buy at the grocery store have been ozone air treated to kill mold spores and bacteria on the surface of such edible foods.

Q. August 6, 2011. I live in Robinson, IL with my husband and newborn baby girl. We currently live in an older house with a basement until we can afford to build a house. I have horrible allergies, but our 6 week old baby girl constantly has runny eyes and stuffy nose. The basement (where the washer and dryer are located) has been flooded many, many times this year. The outflow pipe that carries sink and shower water out to the ditch has been damaged and most of that water is also running back into our basement. There are cracks where water always gets in anytime that it rains. So needless to say we constantly have mold growing down there. We are working on an automatic sunk pump as well as cleaning any materials out of the basement that can harbor mold but I'd really like an expert to help remove it so our baby has a healthy place to grow up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. We are not sure just how long we will be living in this house, it could be anywhere from 2-5 years more and we want it to be healthier than we have been in the past 2 years.
A. The ongoing water problems in the basement mean that the basement will continue to be a mold hell. Airborne mold spores will travel in air currents and through basement ceiling mold growth upward into the floor and walls above to mold cross-contaminate the entire rental house.  In view of your and your child's mold-related health problems and the severity of the water and mold problems, you need to find a mold-safe place to live and move there as soon as possible to avoid serious and permanent health damage.  To want to live more years in such a water and mold plagued house is very unwise.  Until you can find a mold-safe place to live, buy and use an ozone generator to ozone blast your basement at least once per month for one hour of ozone treatment. Do the same for inputting one hour of ozone into your fresh air intake of your heating/cooling system and in all rooms of the house. You can purchase an affordable, high volume ozone blaster at our company's website http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm. During the ozone treatments, you can have no people, pets, or plants in the house and for one hour afterwards. You turn on and off the ozone generator with either a timer or a long extension cord (plug and unplug to turn the ozone machine on and off. As an alternative or additional mold remediation procedure, use boric acid powder mixed with warm water to spray the entire basement (including walls, floor, and ceiling) with a wet coating. Mix two cups of boric per gallon of warm water. You can use a hand pump garden sprayer (about $40 at a large hardware or home improvement store). Use an electric drill to make the spray head holes bigger to allow the free flow of the thick spray solution.  Then scrub all walls, ceilings, floors, and furnishings and fixtures of your entire house with the same mold removal mixture. You can buy boric acid powder at our website Mold Mart http://www.moldmart.net  You would also be helped by reading two of my mold advice ebooks Mold Health Guide and Do It Best Yourself Mold Inspection, Testing, Remediation, and Prevention, only $15 for email attachment to you from Mold Mart. If you have additional questions or need for my help, please email me at phil@moldinspector.com. Thanks, Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator. 

Q. August 5, 2011. I paid the largest mold remediation company in the nation do our remediation.  Just found out they passed the testing by the environmental company I used to have testing done.  Will not have results from VOC tests for 10 business days.  Went into the house yesterday and got so sick as the night went on.  We only had mold issues in the basement but, obviously, spores moved upstairs mainly to the first floor.  The mold remediation company used Shockwave on the walls in the basement and steam cleaned them.  They hepa vacuumed everything in the basement and in the entire house.  I am so sensitive that I opened a book outside that was in the basement and started coughing.  The cooling system isn't EVEN ON!  The ducts were cleaned as well.  We bought two air cleaners which remove mold and VOC's which we are planning on using but I still don't know when I will be able to go inside the house.  I saw your info about the ozone generators.  I've read that you can only run them for a few hours and then have to air the house out for 8 hours.  I'd love to use them but am worried about negative effects.  Reply please.    
A. If you don't do both ozone blasting and boric acid treatment mold fogging of your heating cooling equipment and ducts, you are not going to have a mold-safe house. You need to run our high ozone blaster for just one hour into the fresh air intake of your central heating/cooling system and then one hour in each area of your house to see big results in killing airborne mold spores and landed/deposited mold spores.  You can safely return to the house after just one hour after the ozone treatment because the ozone O3 returns to safe O2 (regular oxygen) in just one hour. As long as you have no people, pets, or plants in the ozone treated area during treatment and for one hour afterwards, there will be no adverse side effects. You can use either a timer or a long extension cord (plug and unplug to turn on and off the ozone generator). Repeat the ozoning every few days in both the HVAC (heating, ventilation, air conditioning) system and everywhere in your house including attic, basement, garage, etc., for several more total ozone treatments.  Then, use a Curtis Hurricane model fogging machine to do mold fogging of boric acid powder (mixed with warm water) into your heating/cooling fresh air intake for one hour. You will have to have lots of sponges and rags just outside each HVAC  duct to soak up the condensation that comes out of each HVAC duct as the result of the fogging. You can buy the fogging machine athttp://www.dynafog.com You can buy 50 lbs of boric acid powder at http://www.moldmart.net. Buy our home edition ozone machine athttp://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm. Read my 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation. I am at your side to get your mold problems fixed. I have done mold inspection, testing, remediation, and prevention all over the United States, Canada, mainland China, the Philippines, Malaysia, and Hong Kong. Buy these products at your earliest convenience so you and I as a team can get your home mold problem fixed. Email me with any of your questions at phil@moldinspector.com.. Thanks---Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator

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